Hewitson 'Ungrafted' Shiraz 2022 ($90 @ Cellardoor)

"Dean Hewitson was a winemaker at Petaluma for 10 years, during which time he managed to do vintages in France and one in Oregon, as well as undertaking his master's at the University of California, Davis. The wines are immaculately made from a technical viewpoint. Dean sources old-vine mourvèdre from Friedrich Koch's Old Garden vineyard, planted in 1853 at Rowland Flat, as well as shiraz and grenache from (up to) 110yo vines in Tanunda and riesling from 30+yo vines in the Eden Valley. Cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, mourvèdre and muscat blanc are estate grown." Halliday Wine Companion

Hewitson is a member of Sustainable Wine Growing Australia - a national program for producers, committed to making wine sustainably.

"Old dry-grown vines are rare in the world of wine and we are indeed fortunate that we can and do claim these as ungrafted. Growing in deep sandy soils, free of pests and diseases these old vines are strong, resilient and true to type. With red-ripe berries and golden-ripe stalks the grapes were picked at optimum ripeness, destemmed and gently crushed leaving some whole berries intact then fermented in open vats with heading down boards for three weeks, pressed then matured in old French barriques on lees for fifteen months. After this maturation period the wine was carefully racked and bottled as an exclusive cuvée." Dean Hewitson

"From old dry-grown vines, fermentation was over a three week period before maturation takes place in older French oak barriques for fifteen months. Deep dense maroon, the nose exhibits notes of spices, cocoa powder, soy, aniseed, tobacco leaves, mocha, chocolate and black fruits. Just a hint of a briary note – have they incorporated a tiny amount of whole bunch fermentation? Displaying a silky palate with focus and finesse, the wine has fine balance and a long, lingering finish, with satiny tannins. This is a fifteen year proposition." 95pts | Ken Gargett | Wine Pilot