Frankland Estate Gruner Veltliner 2023

In a 1955 study of potential grapegrowing sites, renowned Californian viticulturalist Dr Harold Olmo identified Frankland River as one of the most promising prospects in Australia. The wines of Frankland Estate prove he was right. They display finesse and balance and an incisive expression of cool-climate winegrowing.

Founded by Judi Cullam and Barrie Smith, this is indisputably one of the nation's most important and consistent Riesling and Syrah producers. For many years now the release of the single-vineyard Rieslings from this domain in far-flung Great Southern has commanded attention and respect, as attested to by Nick Stock’s observation that Isolation Ridge Riesling "has now become so consistently great, it is a liquid tribute to the dedication of the Cullam family, to their vineyard and winemaking".

Frankland Estate has grafted 0.5ha to Grüner Veltliner, which grows on the top of a lean ridge to make the VSP-trained vines work hard, sitting on an east-facing slope so they get the morning sun rather than the more intense afternoon sun. The vines are farmed according to the Smith Cullam family's standard organic regime. Berries and bunches are 20-30% bigger than Riesling, with reasonably tight bunches.

"At first, it smells of tropical fruit, a combo of guava, limes, tinned pineapple and ripe pears, a little estery too. It does need to breathe. It’ll then offer some lemony notes, radish and a sprinkle of pepper and ginger. There’s a slip of texture and a dab of sweetness across the palate, yet all in all, a lovely, refreshing drink." 92pts | Jane Faulkner | Halliday Wine Companion

Certified Organic